The Avenue of the Giants offers more than the majesty of towering redwoods. The 31-mile route also passes through several small hamlets that give a glimpse into the history of Humboldt County . The towns along the Avenue, once closely tied to the timber industry, now rely more on the tourists who come to see the redwoods, swim in the Eel River and visit Humboldt Redwoods State Park .
At the south end of the Avenue of the Giants is Phillipsville, which has restaurants, a grocery store, a motel, numerous visitor attractions and several river access points.
Further north is the town of Miranda , once the center of 51 different logging operations that thrived through the 1950s. The small, local mills have, for the most part, disappeared. Others were taken over by large companies such as the Louisiana-Pacific Corporation or Pacific Lumber, but they, too, eventually closed.
Myers Flat, north of Miranda, is a town that hung on to its mill into the 1970s. It was once the location of the Morrison and Jackson Lumber Co. sawmill. The mill employed 85 people at its peak, but finally shut down in 1978 after being sold to the Georgia-Pacific Company.
The town of Weott is not located at its original site. The town used to straddle the Avenue of the Giants until 1964 when a devastating flood washed it and several other local towns away. Look for the tall post marking the depth of the floodwater. Most travelers to Weott come to see the visitor's center at Humboldt Redwoods State Park , just south of town.
The town of Redcrest began in 1918 as a logging town. Until recently, it was home to the Eel River Sawmill, the last active sawmill on the Avenue of the Giants. Its location on high ground protected Redcrest from the devastating floods that wiped out the lower-lying towns.
The northernmost community on the Avenue is called Pepperwood. It isn't a town as much as a collection of die-hard residents. Many of them sell produce during the summer. Pepperwood is a low-lying area that used to include stores, a school, church, garages, gas stations and bars. The flood of 1955 eliminated much of that, and the flood of 1964 took care of anything that was left. The residents who remain appreciate the beauty of their home.
Dozens of tourist-oriented attractions cater to the streams of visitors who arrive each year to see the redwoods.
Natural Attractions
- The Chimney Tree, a 78-foot redwood gutted by fire in 1914, is still growing along the Avenue in Phillipsville. Adjacent to the Chimney Tree is Hobbiton U.S.A. , adapted from events in J.R.R. Tolkien's fantasy trilogy.
- The Shrine Drive -Thru Tree in Myers Flat has a sign that reads: “The widest car made can drive through this tree.”
- The 2,500-year-old Eternal Tree House in Redcrest is a 20-foot room in a living redwood first used by Native Americans and later by trappers, hunters and travelers for shelter.
- The Immortal Tree, which has withstood lightning strikes, fire, flood and the logger's axe, still stands near Redcrest.
- Founders Grove, dedicated to the founders of the Save-the-Redwoods League, contains the 346-foot tall Founders Tree and the Dyerville Giant. The Dyerville Giant was the tallest tree in Humboldt Redwoods State Park , but on March 24, 1991, it fell and now lies on the forest floor. Even in repose, however, the tree is an impressive sight.
Garberville / Redway
T
he Southern Humboldt town of Garberville, founded as South Fork in the late 1800s, is a bustling community that belies its size. With a vibrant array of shops, motels, services and restaurants, it caters to travelers on Highway 101 as well as thousands of rural residents in the surrounding countryside. Garberville and its sister city Redway are also the gateway to myriad recreational opportunities, from the miles of swimming holes on the Eel River, to the Yolla-Bolly Middle Eel Wilderness Area, to Shelter Cove and the Lost Coast and, of course, to the 31-mile-long Avenue of the Giants that winds through stands of ancient redwoods a few miles north of Redway. Like many other Southern Humboldt towns, Garberville got it's name from one of the early residents of the area. Jacob Garber served as the town's postmaster, and the area officially became Garberville in March 1874. Back then, a large portion of the present-day town was a prune orchard, Garberville's first industry. When a road connecting San Francisco to Eureka was established in the 1920s, Garberville became a favorite stop for motorists. Today, Garberville is known for its friendly residents and is both a stop-off point and destination for travelers. Although Garberville and Redway get more rain in the winter than northern cities such as Eureka and Arcata, the towns make up for it in the summer, when sunshine is the order of the day. During the summer months, temperatures can reach 100 degrees, although 80 to 90 degrees is more common. And, if it gets too hot, the Eel River is nearby to provide cool relief. The town is well placed on Highway 101, 200 miles north of San Francisco and 70 miles south of Eureka.
Garberville's amenities include an airport and hospital. Garberville and Redway contain about a dozen motels, nearly 15 restaurants and approximately 600 RV, private and public campsite spaces. The area has its share of annual celebrations, among which are the Redwood Run, Jazz on the Lake, a summer reggae festival, and the Summer and Winter Arts and Music Festivals. Anglers have long sought out the area's local waterways. However, due to dwindling stocks, sometimes there are restrictions on the annual catch for species such as salmon. It's a good idea to check with local sporting goods stores for current regulations before dipping a line. Golfers will enjoy the picturesque nine-hole Benbow Golf Course, directly across Highway 101 from the historic Benbow Inn and the Benbow Lake State Recreation Area. During the summer, the nearby river offers sunbathing, swimming, boat rentals, camping and picnicking. Another delightful Garberville destination is Southern Humboldt Community Park, just south of town on Sprowel Creek Road . The community has raised more than $600,000 to save the prime agricultural property from development. The 475-acre parcel includes 200 acres of flat lands, a unique find within California 's Coastal Range. The community continues to raise money to preserve the park's natural resources. For more information, call (707) 923-2287 or check the website at www.sohumpark.org. The quaint and vibrant communities of Garberville and Redway are famous for the big-time yearly events that are celebrated in the area. The towns, which are only a few miles apart, stage musical and theatrical events that are known far beyond the borders of Humboldt County. In June, the annual Redwood Run draws thousands of motorcycle enthusiasts to the banks of the Eel River, just south of Garberville. The event, which limits its ticket sales to about 5,000, features live music, custom and vintage bike shows and much more. For more information, call (707) 247-3424 or visit the website at www.redwoodrun.com. The Summer Arts and Music Festival traditionally takes place around the same time as the Redwood Run. The arts festival features food and craft booths, children's entertainment, music, dancing, boating and swimming. A winter version of the festival is held in December; it's a great place to find a unique Christmas gift. For more information, call the Mateel Community Center at (707) 923-3368 or check out the sponsor's website: www.mateel.org. The summer reggae festival takes place in August. This celebration draws thousands of reggae enthusiasts from around the world, is the West Coast's largest outdoor reggae festival and is acclaimed as one of the world's best. The reggae festival takes place the first weekend of August. Ticket sales are in advance only. For more information, call the hotline at (707) 923-4583 or log on to the website at www.reggaerising.com.
During Father's Day weekend, locals and visitors are treated to the Garberville Rodeo. And on the Fourth of July, revelers head to Benbow Lake for live music, children's activities, hay rides, boating, swimming and, of course, a spectacular fireworks show. Film buffs will have a wonderful time viewing the offerings at the Wild-Rivers 101 Film Festival. The 11-day September event offers current, obscure, classic and foreign movies and documentaries. The screenings take place at Garberville's historic Art-Deco style Garberville Theatre, at the Benbow Lake State Recreation Area and all over Humboldt County . For more information, check the festival's website at www.wildrivers101filmfestival.com. There are so many entertainment opportunities; go to the Chamber of Commerce's website at www.garberville.org for a full calendar and for other information on Garberville and Redway.
Miranda
The rustic town of Miranda , which in Latin means “to be admired,” was once a principal stop on the long and arduous automobile trek from San Francisco to Eureka . The town lies to the east of Highway 101, making it one of a few almost-forgotten towns worth exploring at your leisure along Avenue of the Giants Highway . Surrounded by scenic redwoods, there is much to admire about Miranda. This town of about 350 people, near the southern entrance to Avenue of the Giants and less than 10 miles from Humboldt Redwoods State Park , now boasts a growing community of artists. The town also offers lodging, dining and shopping amenities not available inside the park.
Miranda was named after a woman named Amanda Ruth. Confused? So was one of the town's early postmasters. When asked in the early 1900s to submit a place name for postal purposes, the postmaster thought it was fitting to name the town after Amanda Ruth Logan, who arrived in the area with her husband, John, in the 1870s. The only problem: The postmaster thought her name was Miranda. So the territory that was once known as Jacobsen's Valley, became Miranda in August 1905.
Miranda experienced its biggest growth when the Redwood Highway was built between San Francisco and Eureka in the 1920s. Despite the winding, narrow two-lane highway through the giant redwoods, the trek into redwood country became a popular automobile excursion. Sometimes it even took 12 hours to make the journey, which until the 1930s, remained unpaved for long stretches.
Towns along the route became bustling tourist stops, offering lodging, dining and groceries. World War II put a damper on tourist travel in the early 1940s. But after the war, tourism along the Redwood Highway took off and, at its peak in the mid-1950s, Miranda boasted four or five hotels, a number of restaurants and cafes and several markets. However, when the four-lane freeway was built through much of Humboldt County , many of Southern Humboldt's little towns nearly died off. Not only did the freeway divert traffic off the Redwood Highway , which is now Avenue of the Giants, it also shortened the drive time between San Francisco and Eureka so travelers no longer had to stop for lodging en-route.
If the law of nature dictates that only the best survive, then Miranda Gardens, the only tourist lodging left in Miranda, is a spectacular testimonial. This resort features nicely appointed and maintained cottages, built in the late 1920s. The cottages are ideally situated beneath towering redwoods and are surrounded by flowering gardens. It is a family oriented get-away, with a swimming pool, play area with a basketball court and ping-pong tables and wonderful nightly campfires in the summer. Next door is the Miranda Market, one of the few places to buy groceries and the only place to buy gasoline on this end of the Avenue of the Giants. Between the market and the resort, lies the Enchanted Tree Stump, a free, walk-through attraction. Situated at the end of a short footpath, visitors can venture inside the stump and look up to see a glimpse of the sky above. Across the street is the Avenue Café, featuring hand-tossed pizzas and a surprisingly eclectic menu of home-made and healthy dishes all members of the family will enjoy.
Next to the post office, visitors will find the Redwood Palace and Trading Company, a shop specializing in jewelry, antiques, pieces by local artists, toys and other unique gifts. The Western-style building, complete with a “jail,” is a popular draw. Many visitors enjoy posing for photos behind bars.
For those in search of fine woodworking, beautifully blown glass or masterfully crafted metal works, Miranda is a worthwhile detour. Korbly Woodworks (www.korblywoodproducts.com), in the center of town, features a fantastic selection of carvings, turnings, boxes, chests, furniture, tables, clocks and gifts made from redwood and other native woods. All are crafted by Bernie Korbly, who has 32 years of experience in handmade wood-working. Spirit Art Glass (www.spiritglass.com) is on Avenue of the Giants just south of town. Here, artisan Michael Shearer blows glass on the premises; he creates stunning vases, perfume bottles, bowls, sculptures and paperweights. He also demonstrates his sculpting expertise in his gallery. Stone's Gallery, on the south end of town, features unique redwood gifts crafted by local artists Ed and Cheryl Stone, plus brass and copper sculptures and exotic turnings such as bowls, vases, platters and vessels. Salmon Creek Wood Designs specializes in custom handmade furniture, tables, jewelry boxes and cutting boards.
